Category Archives: A Quick Bite

Espiritu in Mesa Arizona

Flaming Drink Clam and Chorizo Aguachile Verde with ShrimpWow. What a great first visit.
I knew Bacanora downtown, would have several hours of wait time on a Saturday night (which isn’t necessarily a bad thing, when you can hang out down the street at El Charro Hipster Bar with their great coffees and mescal selection), but I had an early morning.
So, I popped into downtown Mesa to try Espiritu. Park in the huge lot in back, and look for the narrow alley just east of Tacos Chiwas with the small neon Espiritu sign visible when you are right at the alley’s mouth.

What a great complement and alternative to Bacanora. It’s a different feel, but all the same great taste notes are there, and the same height to which they are elevating simple local ingredients prepared beautifully and with attention. At Espiritu, there is more room to stock the bar with a bigger range of great regional spirits that they can craft into masterpieces.

If you take Bacanora, which showcases the bar and cooking with fire right in front, and flipped the vibe to a very cool, narrow, dark bar with a great playlist, fun, eclectic decor, and amazing food coming out of the open kitchen at the back, that’s Espiritu.
They aren’t doing the meat and chicken Bacanora is..yet, but they had more even appetizers than Bacanora.

Amazing melon salad…a riff on the Bacanora cucumber salad, with similar accent notes from cheese, and citrus, but a change up for excitement.

Clams and house made chorizo….killer…I liked it even better than the grilled shrimp and chorizo with their amazing bean broth that was my Bacanora favorite.

At Espiritu, they’ve provided a similar delectable flavor profile, but on this day it’s made with garbanzo beans…again…similar phenomenal flavor profile, just different.

Incredible Ceviche Tower…amazing amount of crisp sweet fish and shellfish for the price.
And of course there is fresh, crunchy, yeasty bread for soaking up all the sauces from Proof next door.

The aguachile with shrimp with red or green sauce- incredible, and accompanied with great fried tortilla wedges.

Hey it’s a bar, so they grilled up one of the best burgers I’ve had in Phoenix. Beefy, carmelized and moist inside, served with beautifully fried potato rounds- crisp on the outside, fluffy inside.

Drinks are superb, even if the menu doesn’t yet list everything they can do. Just ask.

I requested a Bacanorita, and got one just like at Bacanora, and then a spicy Mezcal Margarita, which they made with a few subtly magic additions that made it unique and outstanding.

Good to see the launch crew from Bacanora mixed in with some great new staff, so as a consumer it sure seems they are actually firing on all cylinders, even if they will tell you they have a way to go until their final vision is realized.

Tratto…the conundrum of simple ingredients, prepared to perfection.

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4743 N 20th St
Phoenix, AZ 85016
 

Having spent 20 years in the wine and restaurant business, I appreciate someone else making complicated dishes with separate elements that take time to prepare. I appreciate that work, knowing that I could do it, if I invested all that time. I come to Tratto because they achieve a consistency that I never can because I get side-tracked in prep while entertaining, or I can’t or don’t devote all the time and attention needed to get it just right.

What frustrates me and draws me to Tratto at the same time, is their simplicity of creating exquisite flavor. Using high quality ingredients, selected to play off each other, they craft simple, yet phenomenal dishes, perfectly timed and executed…in a production environment.

Their gem salad is a great example. The perfect amount of vinegar and oil to set off lettuce and cheese. Simple, yet insanely gratifying.

Their pasta dishes follow the same pattern: not over-complicated, they manage to show off the flavor and texture of the pasta, as well as the individual elements of the sauce, and become much more than the sum of the integrated parts.

Pork chops, meats and seafood…are all perfectly cooked, & beautifully caramelized when appropriate.

And what a great cocktail and wine list. Well chosen wines to complement food, with a few choices for those who want the wine front and center. Fair markups, and a few esoteric gems. I love their natural and “orange wine” choices, their generous pours, and the quality of their less expensive offerings.

If you can’t find wine here you like at a reasonable price…ask!!!! It’s there, you just don’t know all these wines…how could you. The lower priced wines may not be “supermarket wines”, and the distribution of similar wines in Arizona is pitifully bad…its a circular problem…people don’t know better so they seek out high volume wines, so many restaurants don’t take the chance and stock these lesser known gems. These guys do…so ask for guidance. I’ve carried most of the wines on the list in my store in California (where there are a lot more distributors and small production imports available), but the wines vary yearly and they always have something new from Arizona or elsewhere, so I ask for help every time.

And the cocktails. Here the ingredients tantalize, but the delivery is slightly gentle, to complement the meal.

People always say, save room for dessert…don’t…don’t miss any of the main courses that appeal to you. Just figure it out when dessert time comes.. you WILL find room. Linger over an after dinner drink and share desserts, and now…contemplate what you just experienced. Yummmm

Want a solid Burger? Try Matty G’s

6107 N Scottsdale Rd
Scottsdale, AZ 85250
A solid cheeseburger!

1/26/2020

I’m going to keep this one short and sweet. If you like a good burger, this place is serving up some of the best in town, at a very reasonable price for the area.
If you’re a meat lover, try a classic cheeseburger, and appreciate the wonderful flavors of the burger. Char, caramelization and juicey-ness.
Then go ahead and pile on the accoutrements your next time.
I hope this gem can overcome the jinx of this location!

Caviar with your Valentine?

at Wholesale prices from Beverly Hills Caviar
Visit  http://www.beverlyhillscaviar.com/

Caviar with Blini and Crème Fraiche for Lovers:
(Required for a dozen blini: 40 grams Caviar (1.43 ounces-for those, not quite so sure about caviar try a smaller amount of caviar, more crème fraiche), 1/2 cup crème fraiche, 1 dozen pre-cooked Blini-Thawed.)
 *Heat blini at 300 degrees for 2 minutes on a non-stick baking sheet.
*Remove from oven
*Quickly:
-Top each Blini with 1 heaping teaspoon crème fraiche
-Top crème fraiche with ½ to 1 teaspoon of caviar.
 
Order caviar, a package of blini and a Cowgirl Creamery crème fraiche directly from Beverly Hills Caviar-easy! Their Classic Ossetra is a great buy, and their Royal Ossetra is a well-priced splurge!

As a supplier to leading west coast retailers, they already offer the lowest prices and the best quality I could find (lower than Costco’s Holiday pricing), and there quality is top notch.
 
Beverly Hills Caviar ships free for orders over $500, using their Wholesale web-site pricing, to my clients.
Visit  http://www.beverlyhillscaviar.com/
OFFER CODE: johnsfreeship500        (expires Feb 31, 2014)
 
Use the offer code at checkout after creating your profile for shipping and wholesale pricing. 

If you think you will be a regular shopper, let me know, and I can request that they create a VIP account for you, with a small additional discount.Caviar

A Valentines Caviar Treat

caviar

Caviar with Blini and Crème Fraiche for Lovers

Required (for a dozen blini): 40 grams Caviar (1.43 ounces-for those, not quite so sure about caviar try a smaller amount of caviar, more crème fraiche), 1/2 cup crème fraiche, 1 dozen pre-cooked Blini-Thawed.

*Heat blini at 300 degrees for 2 minutes on a non-stick baking sheet.
*Remove from oven
*Quickly:
-Top each Blini with 1 heaping teaspoon crème fraiche
-Top crème fraiche with ½ to 1 teaspoon of caviar.
-Feed your loved one by hand while Blini are still warm. 
————-Kiss the fingers that fed you.

Order caviar, a package of blini and a Cowgirl Creamery crème fraiche directly from Beverly Hills Caviar-easy! Their Classic Ossetra is a great buy, and their Royal Ossetra is a well-priced splurge!
As a supplier to leading west coast retailers, they already offer the lowest prices and the best quality I could find (lower than Costco’s Holiday pricing), and this offer makes your pricing even more attractive. 

Beverly Hills Caviar is extending a 5% discount off their wholesale web-site pricing, to my clients.
Visit  http://www.beverlyhillscaviar.com/
OFFER CODE: cbplove        (expires Feb 31, 2014)

Use the offer code at checkout after creating your profile for a further 5% off their wholesale pricing. 

If you think you will be a regular shopper, let me know, and I can request that they create a VIP account for you.

Happy Valentine’s Day!

Casa Escobar : Westlake Village – A Mexican Companion for Big Reds

2809 Agoura Rd
Westlake Village
CA 91361
805-777-7747

It’s not on the menu, but order “Russel’s Nachos”, the owner’s namesake dish that the servers and kitchen know by heart. It is the perfect foil for a big, powerful red, made with grilled filet mignon, that is perfectly caramelized, with almost raw sweet onions and a mix of cheeses. Exactly what that big red demands. If you bring your own red, they have a reasonable corkage and good glasses. If you want one of Russel’s red stash, they have some key bargain buys in a big red, including the BV Tapestry Meritage or Hess Allomi Cabernet.

D’Avanti Enoteca : Sadly, it’s Closed-Italian Comfort Food in Paradise Valley / Scottsdale

6316 N. Scottsdale Rd.

480-659-1800

Having been a little underwhelmed by Mia Francesca at DC Ranch, and hearing that the old Quilted Bear restaurant spot at Lincolnand Scottsdale was to be occupied by another of Francesca’s corporate concepts, I admit I wasn’t very excited to visit D’Avanti a week before their grand opening. I’m glad I was practically dragged inside, as it has become a go-to spot for reliable food.

I popped back in this week, craving two of my favorite staples: Truffled Egg Toast, and their Sea Urchin and Crab Linguine.

I first experienced Truffled Egg Toast a decade ago at James Denton’s Ino Café and Bar in Greenwich Village, and it is his creation, described in many cookbooks, that everyone copies. It is fabulous. I love it.

But James, these guys do it better. While Ino was resting on its laurels with their standard, D’Avanti decided that a much thicker piece of really great bread would be a better stage to showcase the players, and they were right. And, Ino is often heavy handed with the truffle oil, while so far, D’Avanti always gets it right. Who knew that a recipe consisting of a slice of grilled bread with the edges covered with melted Gruyere (or in this case Fontina), a depression for two just-cooked egg yolks, a drizzle of truffle oil before the stirring of those yolks, and a sprinkle of grilled asparagus bites, could lend itself to so many permutations. I’m just glad D’Avanti’s Peter DeRuvo gets it right. (as an aside…I also had the cauliflower and the pate…both winners and the pate is a key bargain buy).

The Riccio di Mare e Granchio is another of several standouts. For someone who used to sit on the dock in Santa Barbara watching friends come in with their urchin catch, this dish of linguine, sea urchin and crab is heaven sent. Chef DeRuvo hits a perfect balance to let the subtle notes shine through.

It’s not free, but the prices for these thoughtfully executed dishes, are low enough that I am surprised you can still get a seat for dinner. To top it off, the GM has great wine industry experience, and has a carefully selected list of great buys under $30, and some real standouts in the $40-50 range. Go ahead, ask for him, and ask him what he likes. On the rare occasion he isn’t there, and you want a great buy in a big red, order one of his Montepulciano picks. Of course they also have some crisp white gems and this time, a yummy rose sparkler. You can’t go wrong.